Indonesia: Lombok

A Brief History of Lombok

Lombok’s story is shaped by waves of migration, kingdoms, trade and cultural interweaving. For centuries, the island was home to the Sasak people, whose traditions, language and architecture still define much of Lombok’s identity today. From the 16th century onward, Lombok found itself influenced by powerful neighbours—first the Balinese, who established several western districts and introduced aspects of Hindu culture, and then the Makassarese and Buginese traders who brought new connections across the archipelago. In the late 19th century, Dutch colonial forces seized control after a series of conflicts, weaving Lombok into the wider narrative of the Dutch East Indies.

Independence in the mid‑20th century brought change but also continuity: villages still celebrate age-old ceremonies, weaving traditions thrive, and the blend of Islamic and ancestral customs gives the island a character distinct from Bali yet equally compelling. Today, traces of Lombok’s layered past appear everywhere—from the Balinese temples scattered across the west to the traditional Sasak villages inland—quiet reminders that the island’s calm exterior has been shaped by centuries of movement, resilience and exchange.

Visiting Lombok

Lombok is just a short ferry ride east of Bali and west of Sumbawa, forming part of Indonesia’s Lesser Sunda Islands. Covering around 4,725 square kilometres and home to over three million people, the island combines dramatic mountain landscapes, lush forests, fertile valleys, and long, untouched coastlines. Its beauty is unmistakable—and despite its increasing popularity, there are still quiet corners where time seems to slow down.

I’ll admit, I was a little disappointed to read that Lombok is “fast becoming the go-to place in Indonesia”. I had quietly hoped to slip onto the island for a few blissfully Instagram-free days. But with the island’s mix of volcanic ridges, hidden bays, traditional villages and reef-lined waters, it’s easy to see why word is getting out.

We have no plans to tackle Mount Rinjani—one of Indonesia’s highest and most formidable volcanoes—however stunning the views from its rim might be. Nor will we be heading to the island’s southern beaches for surfing (though the coastline does look very tempting) or spending much time in Mataram. Instead, our intention is simple: get off the plane, find a taxi, and make our way directly to Sekotong in southwest Lombok.

Sekotong: Quiet Shores & Small Islands

Sekotong remains delightfully off the beaten track, though it’s hard to understand why. The region offers sweeping white-sand beaches, quiet coves, coral-rich waters, and a near‑scattered chain of tiny islands perfect for slow boat trips and day explorations. Between the diving opportunities, the laid-back pace, and the gentle rhythm of coastal life, it feels like the perfect place to exhale.

Our goal here is unmistakably simple: relax. With a few days at leisure, we’ll likely take a boat trip out to the little island of Gili Kedis—a sand‑ringed gem barely big enough for a hammock—as well as make good use of the hotel’s snorkelling gear. If we’re feeling energetic, we might walk up Bukit Baital Jemur. At roughly 150 metres high, it’s certainly no alpine expedition, and offers views without the need for oxygen tanks. The only challenge, it seems, is the hotel search—prices appear to have doubled since we first looked, so a Plan B may be on the horizon.

Heading North: Senggigi… and Then a Change of Plan

From Sekotong, the original idea was to head north for a few days of well‑earned idleness in Senggigi. Once promoted as Lombok’s main tourist strip, the area saw significant development in the late nineties. But regional instability in the early 2000s—including riots triggered by extremist groups in 2000 and the Bali bombing in 2002—halted progress. As a result, the Gili Islands to the north and Kuta to the south surged ahead, leaving Senggigi quieter and less developed than once envisioned.

However, after some reflection, we decided to trade “doing nothing” for something a little different.

Senaru: Cool Air & Waterfalls

Our revised plan takes us to Senaru, perched on the northern slopes of Mount Rinjani, at that lovely altitude where the air thins just enough to feel clean again and the world takes on that mist‑and‑mountain softness you only get in the highlands. It’s the sort of place where mornings start cool and clear, afternoons drift by under slow‑moving cloud, and the jungle seems to lean in protectively around the village. People describe it as the “base camp” for Rinjani trekkers, which is technically true but perhaps a slightly grand term making it sound far busier and more rugged than it is, for trekkers heading up toward Rinjani’s rim, but we’ll be taking a gentler approach.

In reality, Senaru feels surprisingly gentle — a little pocket of calm carved into the hillside — and an easy place to simply exist for a few days.